If someoneasks you: “Do you want to go to Kusma? It is not so far.” Here are my suggestions to you:
I love traveling by motorbike in Nepal. It's a bit crazy, and a little dangerous, and definitely voids your travel insurance but when you are racing around those high mountain bends... When my friend asked if I wanted to go for a ride with a group of friends to see a bridge I was so excited about the bike ride I didn't question his assessment that it was 'not so far to Kusma'. I should have known 'not so far' can mean a days walk to a Nepali! I should have at least grabbed a warm jacket!
As our bikes roared out of town, past Hamja and up into the mountains we made numerous stops, posing for photographs, petting baby goats, relaxing in the quickly fading sunshine. The view from the road is beautiful. The mountains are visible from every bend and provide plenty of photo opportunities. As the road cuts its way closely between huge rock cliffs wild bee hives can be seen. The river which hugs the road for most of the trip is an amazing crisp blue, if it was warmer I am sure we'd have stopped for a swim.
By 3pm the sun was well on its way towards the mountains and we still hadn't arrived in Kusma. It was starting to get really cold and to be honest I couldn't feel my face anymore. When I asked if we were close my friends laughed and replied “not so far”. I began to regret giving my sweater to my little sister at the start of the trip.
It was about 4pm when we finally arrived in Kusma and if I could have felt my body i'd have leap off the bike and danced! Kusma is a wonderful old town. it is bustling but still pretty, full of winding, bumpy streets, old crumbling houses and wary smiles. It hasn't yet lost its charm the way Pokhara has.
The bridge was... big. I have no idea how they built it. Some people say it is the longest in Nepal, some people say it is the highest... I can't seem to confirm it anywhere on the internet! What i do know it the bridge is 117m high and 334 m long. It seems so much bigger as it rocks and shifts under your feet with the river swaying under you.
We couldn't spend too much time in Kusma because I was worried about the light. I didn't fancy tackling the mountain bends, which had thrilled me on the ride there, in the dark. The trip back became a race against the fading light and growing cold.
Whenever I think of Kusma I will think of overwhelming coldness and body that ached after hours on a bike. I definitely recommend the trip but I'd put it off until warmer weather!